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Wilco Lam on Martinborough, Wairarapa Wine and Why Wind Matters

This show was published Friday, May 29, 2026

Overview

Wilco Lam, chair of the Wairarapa Winegrowers Association and winemaker at Oraterra, joins Chris Scott to explore Martinborough's terroir, wind-driven viticulture, wine tourism growth and the varieties shaping this corner of New Zealand, situated on the east of the bottom of the North Island.

Wilco has spent close to 14 years running the vineyards and winery at Dry River before moving to Oraterra, making him one of the most experienced voices in the region. In this episode he breaks down the three sub-regions of the Wairarapa (Martinborough, Masterton and Gladstone), explains why limestone-fed hard water and free-draining riverbeds define the soils, and makes the case for wind as a feature not a flaw.

They also get into the rise of cellar door tourism, why direct-to-consumer is the smartest business model for boutique producers, and which emerging varieties such as Chenin Blanc could be the next big thing for Martinborough.

Plus Wilco describes tasting an 1897 Pinot Noir found under an old homestead. The verdict? Somewhere between port and sherry. An experience, not a wine for drinking now.

Host: Chris Scott
Guest: Wilco Lam, Wairarapa Winegrowers Association and Oraterra

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The music used for the UK Wine Show is Griffes de Jingle 1 by Marcel de la Jartèle and Silence by Etoile Noire.

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