Bordeaux rules tested

Château Lafleur has intensified Bordeaux’s irrigation debate after watering its vines in June before any official approval in Pomerol. The estate had already left the Pomerol and Bordeaux AOC systems from the 2025 vintage, seeking greater freedom to adapt to climate change.

The renowned estate chose to sell its wines as Vin de France from the 2025 vintage, abandoning the traditional appellation framework to allow more flexibility in vineyard management. The decision echoes Italy’s Sassicaia, which famously stepped outside existing classification rules to pursue its own quality ambitions.

Lafleur says its early irrigation in 2026 is based on scientific measurements, using limited water to prevent vines suffering severe hydric stress during extreme heat. The estate argues that waiting for official approval could come too late, risking damaged vines and reduced quality.

However, critics warn that a wider relaxation of irrigation rules could have unintended consequences, particularly at the cheaper end of the market, since excessive watering can encourage higher yields.