NZ Chardonnay a match for best Burgundies?

New Zealand Chardonnay has impressed some of the world's leading wine critics in a series of blind tastings, challenging Burgundy's reputation as the benchmark for the grape and raising fresh questions about value and climate change.

Organised by Master of Wine Steve Smith, Opposites Attract compared 10 New Zealand Chardonnays with 14 white Burgundies, including prestigious Grand Cru wines costing up to £990. Forty-three professionals, including Jancis Robinson MW and Tim Atkin MW, tasted the wines across Christchurch, London and Burgundy.

Smith & Sheth's Les Graviers 2024 emerged as the overall winner, while New Zealand wines topped two of the four categories. Robinson called the exercise a triumph, although the wines came from different vintages: New Zealand's 2024 and Burgundy's 2023.

Atkin questioned whether Burgundy still produces the world's greatest Chardonnay, citing climate change and the quality of international rivals. The results also highlighted the price gap, with New Zealand bottles costing £35-£95.

Smith stressed that the aim was not to replace Burgundy, but to earn New Zealand Chardonnay a place alongside it.